Photo credit: Jonathan Fong

Photo credit: Jonathan Fong

Today, there are tens of thousands of organic, regenerative farmers in the U.S. Organic food is available in 3 out of 4 conventional grocery stores, and sales are growing by more than 10 percent per year, reaching almost $40 billion annually. There is soaring consumer interest in farmers’ markets, natural food stores, and restaurants that feature locally-grown organic produce and pastured meats. Alongside this boom in consumer interest in the farm-to-table movement is another story being told about our heirloom tomatoes: the failure of small farms.

The now-famous New York Times op-ed by Bren Smith, “Don’t Let Your Children Grow Up To Be Farmers,” made waves in the agricultural community two years ago by stating that being a small farmer was not a great way to make a living. Afterwards, many celebrity farmers (Joel Salatin being included in that list) rose to the challenge to make the case that farming can be a profitable and desirable profession. Just a few months ago, Civil Eats published an article entitled, “Quitting Season: Why Farmers Walk Away From Their Farms.” The story follows the closing of Walking J Farm and its two farmers, Tina Bartsch and Jim McManus, as they realize they have been losing money for five years and make the difficult decision to quit.

Despite the hard and heartbreaking stories of young farmers closing down shop, there are sustainable farmers and ranchers like Full Belly Farm in Guinda, California. Full Belly Farm has spent over 30 years building a resilient and successful business while restoring natural habitats, sequestering carbon in the soil, creating over 50 jobs and economic opportunities for farmworkers, and educating families on where food comes from.

So what are they doing differently? They are running their farm like a real business. Successful small farmers are using Quickbooks, creating crop enterprise budgets, applying for USDA grants, making purchasing and investment decisions based on taxes, analyzing marketplaces, anticipating returns and adjusting, always adjusting, to make smarter business decisions.

Full Belly Farm co-owner and farmer, Judith Redmond, believes that creating a financially viable business begins with something that doesn’t come naturally to many farmers, “None of us at Full Belly Farm have training in financial matters, but over the years we have learned that we need those tools as much as the others that we use out in the field. Of course we use economics as one way to analyze how we are doing from year to year, but we have also figured out that we need to be on top of the financials so that we can deal with taxes and the regulatory world in the most advantageous way possible.”

There is a new generation of sustainable farmers like Fifth Crow Farm, a seven-year-old organic vegetable farm in Pescadero, California that is also figuring out that financial tools are as important as farm tools. Fifth Crow Farm has gone from barely scraping by to making a comfortable living farming. They are growing food for thousands of families and maintaining farmland in an area rife with urban sprawl. They have created more than a dozen jobs and strive to be a model business through working towards providing healthcare to employees, donating to the local food bank, and starting a scholarship fund for the children of local farmworkers.

Photo credit: Jeff Spirer

Photo credit: Jeff Spirer

Fifth Crow Farm could have been Walking J Farm a few years ago had it not been for a combination of support from their community, their families, and rigorous business planning. They had to spend time and energy to adapt by analyzing their financials and adjusting to the market. Wholesale wasn’t working so they shifted to direct sales through a CSA and farmers’ markets, which proved to be a profitable model for them.

Teresa Kurtak, one of the owners of Fifth Crow Farm, explains the company’s own struggle finding time to business plan: “The work we do is so all consuming that it's easy to get lost in the unending list of right nows. But, truthfully, the most important time we spend is sitting down and really working through what our bigger picture goals are. It's easy to find yourself working for the farm instead of the other way around.” Fifth Crow Farm hasn’t made it out of the woods, yet but they are on track to be as successful as Full Belly Farm.

As consumers, we often see the purchase of food as a simple financial transaction instead of what it is: a critical relationship with the people who produce our food. Our grocery choices determine the health of our families, our land, and our planet. What we need to do, as consumers, voters, and advocates, is recognize these farms as they are starting out and better support them. Let’s build on the good food movement of the last 40 years to support increased social, environmental, and economic justice for farmers and farmworkers. Walking J Farm shouldn’t be the standard for the story of a beginning farm -- Fifth Crow Farm should be.

There are free resources for small farmers to assist with business planning, legal advice, land access, and food safety, offering a chance to make a difference in their financial success. The next time you are shopping at a local farmers' market, ask your farmer what they need help with and how they can succeed. Learn about their struggles and try to offer help through buying food or sharing educational resources. As Redmond believes, “when people talk about sustainability, they think of environment, community, and economics — the financial side has to be integrated into the decision making.“

For an opportunity to meet Fifth Crow Farm and learn more about the financial tools that helped to empower them to become a better business, join us at our upcoming Grazing at the Kitchen Table from 6.30pm to 9.30pm on Thursday, September 22, 2016 at Dogpatch WineWorks in San Francisco. Tickets are on sale now. Follow #GrazeAndGive2016 for updates.

Bay Area farm: Fifth Crow Farm

Bay Area farm: Fifth Crow Farm

Founded in 2008 by a trio of recent UCSC Farm & Garden program grads, Fifth Crow Farm is a young business with big ambitions. Those ambitions extend beyond the farm itself, as partners John Vars, Mike Irving, and Teresa Kurtak operate with long-term sustainability in mind.

What started with a shoestring budget has become a prolific enterprise in its own right. The Pescadero-based farm consists of 80 acres of land: 30 acres of row crops, an apple orchard, a young pear orchard, and 350 heritage-breed, pastured hens. The team’s 50 plus crops include 24 varieties of apples, leafy greens, squash, root veggies, beans, berries, flowers, and much more. This diversity is more than just a boon to Fifth Crow Farm’s dedicated customers, including a 200-member CSA; it’s a conscious decision to avoid mono-cropping.  

Bay Area farm: Fifth Crow Farm

Bay Area farm: Fifth Crow Farm

Sustainability is the farm’s guiding principle. Certified Organic by California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF), they utilize compost, cover crops, and organic fertilizers to keep things humming. Mobile chicken coops mean both healthy birds and healthy soil for future crops. Crop rotation, exclusion (netting), and beneficial insects offer ecosystem-friendly alternatives to synthetic pesticides. The team has even partnered with the FDA’s Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) to provide habitat and travel corridors for beneficial insects and pollinators, and establish energy- and water-efficient irrigation systems. 

Supporting the community — including those who work the land — is another part of this sustainable mindset. “They care deeply about helping build resilient local food systems, building community, and connecting people to where their food comes from,” says their Advisor Anthony Chang. “And they take really seriously their responsibility in running their business with integrity -- offering year round employment to many of their employees, paying them a good wage, and contributing to a scholarship fund for the children of farmworkers in Pescadero.”

Running a farm that’s socially just, ecologically sound, and economically viable is no small feat. Challenges, often unexpected, arise every day. Just this month, the team’s ailing water pump gave out, which meant postponing plans for five acres of quinoa. In true farmer spirit, they adapted, armed with the knowledge that their nascent potatoes can be dry farmed since they were sown with sufficiently saturated soil.

Often, the obstacles aren’t weather or equipment woes, but the everyday challenges of running a business. That’s where Kitchen Table Advisors comes in. KTA has been working with Fifth Crow Farm since 2013, providing business planning, financial management, and organizational development mentorship. Perhaps most importantly, KTA has acted as a sounding board for their ever-evolving plans, and connected them with resources and tools to help them thrive. Today, Fifth Crow Farm is part of KTA’s new alumni program.

Bay Area farm: Fifth Crow Farm

Bay Area farm: Fifth Crow Farm

It’s been inspiring to watch the team grow — their farm, community, and families. In 2013, farmer John and his wife Maggi welcomed daughter Naima to the farm the same day that farmers Mike and Teresa (partners in business and marriage) greeted son Charlie. No doubt, they are tilling that soil for Naima and Charlie. “They are stewarding the land for future generations,” says Anthony. “They are growing healthy food for my family and our communities. And they are building businesses with values where people and planet come first.” 

Come taste Fifth Crow Farm's beautiful meat and produce this September 22nd, 2016 from 6.30pm to 9.30pm during Grazing at the Kitchen Table. The event will be hosted at Dogpatch WineWorks in San Francisco. Tickets go on sale in July. Follow #GrazeAndGive2016 for updates.